Conquering the Unknown: Grand Canyon

"Phantom Ranch was a war zone"

"They all looked like zombies"

"Kathleen has been at Phanton Ranch for a couple of hours, sick"

"98 degrees at the bottom is shade temperature. The perceived temperature could be as high as 120 degrees"

"17 hrs"

"You made the right choice at North Rim"

"If you feel like crap by North Rim, don't run back"

"That's Mike Aish! He's famous!"

"I accidentally got into Western States 100 and Ultra Trail de Mount Blanc. I know...crazy. Not sure what I am doing."

"The farthest I've run is 50k"

"This was the most difficult run of my life"

I wasn't sure how to start documenting our experience at the Grand Canyon. Writing this was a challenge, and I apologize if it seems chaotic, even somewhat nonsensical.

This weekend was extremely taxing emotionally for Sean, Kathleen, Kyle, my Dad, and I. The physical brutality has surely scarred that area of our brain strictly reserved for self preservation. It will forever haunt us, while simultaneously providing vital self confidence for the next extreme challenge we set ourselves to task against.

For the first time- I DNF'd (Did Not Finish). While I successfully finished the 23 mile Rim to Rim (R2R). A return run to the South Rim wasn't in the deck for me. Calling it quits at the North Kaibab trailhead at the North Rim was devastating. I wasn't the only one who was at the trailhead completely deflated. At that time (11:30AM), there were four newcomers at North Kaibab trailhead who elected to withdraw from the round trip run. We didn't know each other, but shared the same demoralized chatter. The consensus was we could all run back if absolutely necessary, but felt it was too dangerous. There was already a rumor buzzing around Phantom Ranch would hit a perceived high of 110 degrees.

Before reaching the North Rim, I recongized several issues with my effort - flags of caution. First, I started to feel the effort early in the run. By 9 miles, the pace seemed just a tad too quick for me, and I was starting to mix in short walking interludes. This was way to early. Especially knowing 10mpm should not tax me at all. Second, my breathing and pulse, for almost any climb, were accelerated. I was, unfortunately working too hard for every inch forward. Finally, despite drinking 32 to 40 oz of water an hour - I had stopped urinating since 2 1/2 hours into the run. In the heat of the canyon, this could be a very serious health risk.

There are many rules you need to be aware of when dancing with the Grand Canyon. Generally, it starts with this:

Once you enter, you have to get yourself out.

Plan around that statement. Water, food, salt, emergency plan, sun tan lotion, etc. This is not an ultramarathon. You cannot throw in the towel at the next aid station, or hitch a ride to the finish or hospital. Once below the Rim, you need to get yourself out or be airlifted to the nearest hospital (Flagstaff presumably - 90 minute drive from South Rim). The airlift is for extreme cases. Rangers prefer to have individuals rest out the issue. Even overnight. "Drink fluids, eat more food, and here - sleep on the side of the trail in this sleeping bag". Not exactly your familiar Marriott accommodations now is it? During our adventure, 2 people were airlifted out.

Many factors went into our decision to run this past Saturday. For starters, the North Rim wasn't opened until May 15th. Which means shuttle services back to South Rim and potable water along the trail. This was our safety net. Much to my surprise, I was to use it.

At the North Rim, recognizing where I was physically, and knowing the pending temperatures, my biggest fear was that I wouldn't be able to get myself out of there safely if I went back into the Grand Canyon. I wasn't going to be a burden on Sean, on the Rangers, nor any emergency helicopter crew. Both Sean and Kyle looked quite strong at the trailhead, and were confident in their ability to get back safely. After 7hrs of running and hiking, we separated. I went ahead to the North Rim Lodge and they returned to the trail. Within a few hours I started to receive confirmation that I had made the absolute right choice.

I was finally able to send a text to my Dad while at our first shuttle rest stop. Wisely, I also let my wife know. This was approximately 2 1/2 hours after I left Sean and Kyle. After providing my update, the response I received from my dad was discouraging. Kathleen had become ill, presumably heat exhaustion, and has been resting at Phantom Ranch for several hours. It appeared that Sean and Kyle were making good progress as they were half way down North Kaibab trail by that point. Upon arriving at our campsite nearly 6 hours after parting with the team, Dad informed me the rangers and volunteer rescue service organization were overwhelmed with issues. One individual had to be airlifted out and Kathleen was still at Phantom Ranch. We felt so helpless. To occupy time, we went to the ranger / SAR office. We bumped into another rescue services member, who promptly informed us that today was a nightmare. The volume of issues were so high, the SAR boss left the soft cushion of a desk job and headed down to the canyon to help organize efforts. This is where I learned that the day's temperatures rivaled peak summer heat, and that the bottom of the canyon will feel as hot as 120 degrees. The SAR volunteer then emphasized that my decision to stop at North Rim was the right one.

Having let the negative information on activies in the canyon soak in, I grew concerned for my party. As the afternoon transitioned into evening, we closely watched the GPS beacon for Sean's progress. Both dad and I were flooding the host website with screen refreshes every 2 or 3 minutes. Frustration with the websites delay was evident at times. Eventually it became apparent that Sean had also stopped at Phantom Ranch, but we didn't know why. Was it to assist with Kathleen? Were they coming out today? Was Sean and/or Kyle in need of medical assistance. While nervous, my dad reminded me that there are plenty of Rangers at Phantom Ranch. I also took solice in knowing Sean is the most qualified outdoorsman I know. I'd follow him into any forest, for it would be the safest place to be in any crisis.

Movement. After a few hours, the beacon showed movement. Signicficant movement. One of a runner. Our deduction was that Sean was heading on ahead to reach us and share the plan. As it was after dusk, we were starting to think that Kathleen would stay the night at Phantom Ranch. We grew excited as the beacon moved closer and closer to the trailhead. We calculated a 9 to 10pm arrival based on the beacon progress. There was an hour long break at Indian Gardem, four very steep miles from the trailhead. Same questions again...is he ok? Will he stay overnight? Only later on did we find out Sean paused briefly at Indian Point, so it was a product glitch/satellite coverage issue. Upon seeing movement again, we decided to park the car at the trailhead and wait. The temperature at the rim had dropped to well below 70, and it was extremely windy at this time. We wanted to get him into the warmth of the car as soon as he crested the rim. Thankfully. Sean sent a text around 845pm that he will be at the trailhead in 30min. Our anxiety reduced even further upon receiving a text from Kathleen with her progress. To our surprise, Kyle and her made it to Indian Point. They would stay there that night.

Sean arrived at 930pm, about 17hrs after we started (4:15AM). He had the familiar facial expression I saw on almost all finishers at Zion 100. He looked thinner. He looked beat up. He was staring into the abyss. His mind wasn't really with us. He wasn't cold - a sign that his core body temperature was still way too high. He made contact with Kyle's girlfriend, and we agreed to have them crash at our campsite till morning.

The next morning, Kathleen and Kyle made it out around 10AM. Sean and I walked a 1/2 mile down to meet her on trail. Seeing a familiar face is deeply uplifting. I've been on her side of the deal before, and know first hand. On the way down, we talked with another runner who arrived at 1am. He was back at the trailhead waiting for his two friends to arrive. They too, had to crash at Indian Point. Kathleen shared her experiences too, of watching people sleeping and vomiting on trail. From Phantom Ranch to Bright Angel trailhead, a common term was echoed amongst many hikers and runners: this was a war zone.

This weekend'a temperatures were unusual for this time of year. However, Mother Nature doesn't plan her activities based on anybody's itinerary. I am extremely thankful everybody made it out healthy. I happy to have met Kyle early on the trail, and shared this crazy experience with. I am so very proud at Sean's monstrous accomplishment, especially given the circumstances. But for anybody who travels to the canyon to conquer your challenge, be safe. Do not over extend yourself for the sake of achieving a lifelong goal or check off a bucket list item. Doing so not only endangers you, but others that may need dire medical attention. I wi be direct - people die every year. Mostly people entirely out of shape for the Grand Canyon (think couch potatoes, think grandma, think 5 year old children). They see the Grand Canyon as just another amusment park. But it isn't exlusive to this category of individuals. People like you and I die every year in the Grand Canyon. Know your limits. Be comfortable with asking for assistance. Accept not achieving your goal.

Don't fuck with the Grand Canyon. She can be beautiful, but she doesn't play fair. If you aren't prepared for surprises, she will eat you up.

Key points - lessons to share:

1) Cell coverage is unreliable anywhere. South Rim seems to have the best coverage, but it doesn't provide adequate coverage at the campground. North Rim doesn't have coverage. For obvious reason, below the rims are void as well.

2) Two small businesses provide shuttle services between the rims. Do your research before going, especially if you know you'll use it. There are only a couple shuttle runs a day. There is no office/person to talk to at North Rim - you have to call for reservation. Due to bad cell coverage, use the North Rim Lodge courtesy phone. Only one of the businesses is local, so not sure how you can reserve a seat from the North Rim for the out of local area business.

3) unless pre-arranged, shuttle pickup is at the North Rim Lodge. It is 1.7 miles of pavement between North Kaibab trailhead and the lodge. Rumor has it the lodge has a shuttle between the locations - however I never saw one in my 30 minutes there. Fortunately I asked a wonderful couple if I could hitch a ride to the lodge with them. 1.7 miles is unbearably long at that point. For planning purposes, the rim to rim shuttle is a 4 1/2 hr ride.

4) Bring cash, ID, and credit card. Generally this should apply for any adventure run.

5) Bring sun tan lotion. You'll sweat it off ever few hours. You will need to re-apply it. Consider a bandana, wear it around your neck, soak it often. I wore a cotton short sleeve shirt with removable long sleeves. The sleeves covered the entire arm length and provided sun protection. Further, I soaked them regularly for an immediate cooling effect. In the heat of the day, everything dries quickly though. Take advantage of all water sources to cool off. Sun glasses and visor is advisable.

6) North Rim closes for the winter months. Facility and services are no longer working then. This includes the shuttle and the lodge. Generally, water along the north kaibab and bright angel is no longer running too, as it originates from North Rim. This is important info for R2R runners.

7) Caveat to #6. Most of North Kaibab trail parallels a river, which is easily accesible year-round. Bright Angel has several streams that can be used as a water source between the Colorado River and India Garden. South Kaibab has NO running water, either stream fed or fauceted. Generally this is why R2R2R runners tend to run down South Kaibab to Colorado River, up and down North Kaibab, then up Bright Angel trail.

8) The hottest portion of the day is between 10AM and 4PM. Plan to start the run early. We started at 4AM, which unfortunateky put Sean and Kyle in the oven on their return trip. One group started their R2R2R at 11PM, something Sean and I will consider for our next R2R2R.

9) Consider purchasing a GPS beacon (www.spot.com). If you have people waiting for you, it keeps them aprised of your progress.

My next attempt will most likely be out of season for North Rim. Sean and I handle the cooler weather so much better. I am sure this would present other risks at the rims (snow/ice on trail). I don't know when, as the rest of 2014 and 2015 continue to look like some exciting adventures are ahead.

Pictures below are not in any order...